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Sunday, May 6, 2012

Wine Pairing with Chicken Pot Pie with Puff Pastry


When thinking of chicken pot pie, milk seems to be the most obvious beverage accompaniment. But what if you want to enjoy a glass of wine along side?   No problem. Big, mouth-filling chardonnay styles come to the rescue here. This style of Chardonnay is most commonly from California and Australia, products of malolactic fermentation and oak exposure. To critics, there is some loss of acidity with some of these styled chardonnays, limiting their versatility as a wine accompaniment to wide array of recipes.   Though in spite of some degree of criticism, these big chardonnays continue to be popular. Here, the success of the pairing is aided by mouth feel as well as taste. The warm comfort food drive of chicken pot pie is well complimented by the oak-imparted butterscotch notes and unctuousness that the malolactic and oak exposure add to otherwise fairly neutral chardonnay grape.  

The following wine suggestions are a either very general or a highly abbreviated list. The number of good options is way beyond the scope of this comentary. One may wonder if "spending up" for a pairing chardonnay is warranted with chicken pot pie, a meal many associate with a mass produced frozen dinners. The choice is yours, but keep in mind that the end result of this chicken pot pie recipe will be delicious and fresh, and a quantum leap better in quality. In most cases, the higher priced chardonnays (in this case $20 or up/bottle) will have better overall balance and aftertaste.

Here is a very short list from California, generally listed from higher priced to lower priced in order of mention - Rombauer Vineyards, Frank Family Vineyards, La Crema, Kendall Jackson, Edna Valley, J Lohr and Meridian.

If you want to check out some Australian Chardonnays, several low priced, large volume imports are likely familiar; Yellowtail, Wyndham Estate Bin 222 and Lindeman's.   Though the not be as easily found, as the aforementioned, Leeuwin Prelude - Margaret River Chardonnay is a good choice as well

Though French selections are seldom of this style, mention should not be neglected since France's Bourgogne (Burgundy) region is the benchmark and home base of the chardonnay varietal. White (chardonnay varietal) wines from this area can vary significantly in taste, even in the case of vintners and growing areas in surprisingly close proximity to each other.   The common denominator will be a more acidic, terroir-driven wine that is more true to the essence of the chardonnay grape. It is a cooler climate here than in many California growing areas.   If you are casual aficionado of wines and accustomed   to big California chardonnay's, most white burgundy wines will be quite different. But there are a few French options that get into the ballpark of some of the California chardonnays, and can pair very well with chicken pot pie.   Look for a Pouilly Fuisse or a Meursault, both of which demonstrate a greater oak influence.   Be forewarned that some of these wines are on the expensive side, though the base for Pouilly Fuisse can be just beneath $20 per bottle.




Thursday, May 3, 2012


Chicken Pot Pie with Quick Puff Pastry.



Quick Puff Pastry


While you won't have the clean, distinct layers formed as in the classic method, the final dough still forms amazingly light — and numerous — crisp and flaky layers. Because the butter is cut in before folding, the final layers are more random — like stacked puzzle pieces. You might notice the dough rising a little unevenly in places, but this will be minimal.  You will have puff pastry in about 90 minutes.

Pastry
 
18 Tablespoons (2 sticks + 2 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter cut into 1/2-inch cubes (a high-fat European-style butter, such as Sierra Nevada Cheese Company, Pamolie, Plugra or Strauss should be used)

1 1/2 cups, dip and sweep method,  (6.5 ounces) all-purpose flour (King Arthur flour is recommended)

1/4 cup + 1 Tablespoon (1.25 ounces) cake flour

3/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/3 cup ice water, and just a little more to bring dough together

1 teaspoon cold lemon juice

Equipment Recommendations:
Food processor with a metal blade
1 baking sheet
Heavy duty wooden rolling pin
Wooden, granite or marble surface for rolling
Scale, Ruler, Pastry Brush, Plastic Wrap, Pastry/Board Scraper, Spray bottle with water, pizza cutter, serrated knife, and scissors
Extra all purpose flour for rolling

Making the Dough:   Cover and freeze the butter and flours for 30 minutes to chill thoroughly.  Chill metal blade of food processor in the refrigerator. In the bowl of a food processor inserted with chilled metal blade, combine the flours, along with the salt. Pulse to combine. Add half of the frozen butter pieces and pulse until the butter is reduced to the size of small lima beans.  Add the remaining half of the pieces, and continue to pulse until the size of small lima beans.  Note:  Between pulses, periodically check the size of butter pieces. Stir contents with a fork to check. 

Remove the cover and add the ice water and lemon juice.  Pulse until moistened and continue to pulse just until the dough begins to clump together.  (If the dough does not come together, add more ice water by the teaspoon.)

Forming and Turning the Dough:  Turn the dough out onto a large piece of plastic wrap. It will be very crumbly. Using the plastic wrap, shape the mass into a rough rectangle. There will be large chunks of butter showing, and it will look rough and crumbly, but should stick together in a solid mass. Unwrap the dough and place it on a lightly floured surface. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a rectangle approximately 8 by 10 inches.  Using a board scraper, fold the dough into thirds as you would fold a business letter.  See diagram illustrations 6 and 7 below.




Clean the work surface, flour it lightly, and position the dough making a quarter turn, so that the closed side is now toward your left -- like a book.  This is the first turn.  Note:  Before each subsequent turn, position the dough so that the closed side is facing to your left.  See diagram illustration 8 above.  The puff pastry will be given a total of 6 turns.  When rolling out the dough into a rectangle, use a board scraper to square off the edges.  If at any point the dough starts to soften and stick, slip it onto a cookie sheet, cover it with plastic wrap, and refrigerate it until firm (but no longer than 30 minutes), to keep the butter from getting too hard, as it will not soften evenly at room temperature until at least 4 turns have been accomplished.


Lightly flour the surface of the dough, and roll the dough into a rectangle about the same size as before.  Fold the dough into thirds as before, clean and re-flour the work surface, and place the dough so that once again the closed end is to your left.  Repeat these steps two more times. Mark the 4 turns by lightly pressing your fingertips (or knuckles if you have long nails) into the smooth surface of the dough to create 4 shallow indentations.  Tightly wrap the dough with plastic wrap and place on a baking sheet.  Refrigerate for a minimum of 40 minutes and a maximum of 1 day before completing the last 2 turns.


Store:  Refrigerated, up to 2 days; frozen, up to 1 year. Serving:  Puff pastry cuts best with a serrated knife.

Baking:  Preheat oven 20 minutes before baking.  Place oven rack in the upper third of the oven to avoid overbrowning the bottom.  Baking the puff pastry directly on a moistened baking sheet helps the dough adhere to the sheet, keeping it from sliding and distorting during baking.  Do not use a black baking sheet, as it will overbrown the bottom crust.

Tips for Success: 
Butter:  High-fat European-style butter makes it a lot easier to produce a quality puff pastry.  Because the butter is more pliable even when cold, it’s easier to roll the dough.

Food Processor:  The easiest method for combining quick puff dough is in a food processor. A few whirls in a processor makes quick work of the dough, the pulses bringing everything together before the ingredients can begin to warm.

Lemon Juice:  By adding a little lemon juice to the dough, you won't taste the lemon juice itself, but baked into the pastry, the acid brings out the flavor of the other ingredients, intensifying the taste of the butter.

Cake Flour:  The addition of lower-protein cake flour gives the dough structure without making it too "elastic" to roll.  The result is a delicate puff pastry.

Keep everything cold:  Like classic puff pastry, quick puff pastry relies on cold ingredients for its characteristic puff.  Here, the dough rises, by the steam created by the butter layers as the dough bakes. If the butter softens and is absorbed into the dough, you will lose the layers.  By keeping all of the ingredients chilled, not just the butter, but the flours too, this will help to keep the overall dough cold as it is worked together.  If you find that the dough is softening as you fold or roll it, or you're working in a warm kitchen, wrap the dough and refrigerate it as often as needed to keep it chilled and firm.


Chicken Pot Pie with Quick Puff Pastry


For chicken
1 recipe of quick puff pastry
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup white wine (La Vielle Ferme)

4 medium boneless chicken breasts (1 1/2 pounds)

1 celery stalk, cut into three pieces
1 carrot, cut into three pieces
1 yellow onion, quartered
5 whole pepper corns
Veloute Sauce
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour
3 cups reduced chicken stock
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup whipping cream, more if needed
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
A squeeze of fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon (optional)
1 teaspoon lemon zest (optional)
Vegetables
1 cup shelled English green peas
16 small yellow potatoes, scrubbed, boiled until just tender, cooled and cut in half
4 medium yellow carrots, lightly peeled and cut into a 1/3 inch slices on the diagonal
2 leeks, cleaned and cut into 1/4 inch slices
2 tablespoons butter
1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon water
1.  In a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, bring chicken stock, wine, aromatic vegetables and pepper corns just up to a low boil. Add chicken breasts and simmer, uncovered, 3 minutes.  Remove pan from heat and cover, then let stand until chicken is cooked through, about 15 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate and cool. Finely chop or shred.
2.  Rapidly boil down the cooking liquid until it has reduced to about three cups.  In a separate sauce pan, melt the butter, blend in the flour, and cook slowly, stirring, until they foam and froth together for two minutes without coloring.  Beat in 3 cups of the boiling cooking liquid.  Boil, stirring for one minute.  Blend the egg yolk and cream in a small bowl.  Whisk in some of the hot sauce into the egg-cream mixture to temper.  Add egg mixture to sauce in pan.
3.  Return the sauce to the pan and boil, stirring, for one minute.  Thin out with more cream if necessary.  Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.  Strain into a bowl until ready to use.
4.  Drop the peas into boiling salted water and boil rapidly, uncovered, for 2 minutes. Immediately drain in a colander. Run cold water over them for 2 to 3 minutes to stop the cooking and to set the color. Put aside until ready to use.
5.  Roll puff pastry out on a floured surface to 1/4 inch.   Invert pie plate on pastry and using a sharp knife, cut a circle around the outside slightly larger than the pie plate itself.  Cut an additional circle.  Place dough circles on a cookie sheet and place in refrigerator until ready to use.
6.  In a medium sauté pan, melt 1 ounce butter and add carrot and leeks.  Sauté for about  6-8 minutes.  Add the potatoes, peas, tarragon, and chicken; season with a little salt and  pepper.  Remove to a large bowl.  Pour sauce over filling mixture.  Divide filling into two 9-inch pie plates filling about 3/4 of the way full.   Brush edges of dish with egg wash.
7.  Carefully top each pie dish with a pastry circle pressing the dough around the rim to form a seal.  You do not want the pastry circle touching the filling.  Using a paring knife, cut two to three slits in the pastry to allow steam to escape.  Brush top with egg wash.
8.  Place on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for approximately 35 minutes, or until crust is puffed and golden and filling is bubbling.
9.  Let cool for 10 minutes before serving.  Serves four to six.

Variation:  Make individual pot pies using ramekins, soup crocks or oven proof bowls.  Bake for approximately 30 minutes, or until crust is puffed and golden and filling is bubbling.  Add other seasonal vegetables to pot pie mixture such as mushrooms and/or green beans.